Bahamas!!!!!

Tah Dah! We made it!
We set out from Beaufort, NC to Marsh Harbour, Great Abaco Island. As my dad put it, we were barfing one day and sun-tanning the next! But after eight days, it was "LAND HO!" and we entered turqouise waters and saw our first palm trees. It took a few days to find wireless that works, the power is frequently interrupted. So, I will be publishing much shorter posts to get as much out to you as possible before the power (and wireless) goes down. Look at the belies in the top picture! We both look pregnant! (although niether of us is...I've learned to verbalize these things)

Beaufort, NC

Just a quick note to say we made it. So we made it!
I think we're finally below the latitude at which there is little risk of frost, snow and chronic depression, so we could happily wait for our fair weather window to make the hop across the pond without freezing to death. We have run into our friends Caroline et Jocelyn, and have made a few more, so we're having a good time. More later when I get some pictures of the wild ponies that live on the island along our beam!

Hello from sunny, although a tad chilly, Ocracoke, North Carolina!
After leaving Annapolis, we sailed down the rest of the Chesapeake Bay. We enjoyed a few lovely, tiny anchorages, most of them tree-lined, some grassed, but all sorrounded by homes.
You could see that developers have made a killing on what used to be pristine fish and gaming land. Still beautiful, but a little crowded.
The first picture is of the Naval Dockyards in Norfolk, Va., an aircraft carrier. That morning saw us pass some remarkable naval sights: really huge ships, some old ones being restored, just mile after mile of industry and military. Next shot is taken after "being released" from a swing-bridge. We were first in line to wait an hour for the bridge to open, hence we lead the charge out. This is what we saw when we looked behind. It sure didn't take long for the power-boats to pass the sail boats! Next is all I could shoot of our 6-dophin-escort. Quite remarkable to have these 8 footers playing alongside the bow! They were breaching and playing, but our boat doesn't go fast enough to create the size of bow-wave these critters really like to "surf" in, so it didn't last very long. The last shot is of a pelican. I wish I could have photographed them in flight, for they are the funniest birds ever! Their huge bills make them look prehistoric and weighty.
As we press on to Beaufort, the weather seems to hold above freezing, I'm glad to have our duvet! We shared an American thanksgiving with some other cruisers, Sue & Corky aboard "Surprise". They were given two Brant geese off Hatteras, and invited us to join them. These are sea-geese, and you could taste the sea in their meat! Corky wrapped them in bacon and barbequed them to perfection, it was quite unusual, but delicious!
More when we reach Beaufort!

Chesapeake Bay

The Chesapeake has been a lovely experience. At this time of year, that is after the boater's summer season, the anchorages are mostly empty and there is plenty of room in the channels. We have been anchoring in some beautiful small creeks, surrounded by fall colours and seabirds. Getting off the boat for a stroll is difficult when we're nowhere near a dingy-dock, as most towns don't seem to provide them, but I'm pleased to say Annapolis has provided one dingy dock at the end of each street that ends at the water...way to go Annapolis! We actually got kicked off a public beach in another town off the Hudson River, apparently you're not allowed to "launch or debark" from a beach...fine! we said. We'll go. hmph.

The above photos are of Annapolis, the first is , of course, taken while we were leaving the town at sunrise. The autumn leaves were found at the park in behind our anchrage in a place called Spa Creek. Nice dingy dock at the park, too. The last is one funky, fiesty wee light house off the bay outside Annapolis.

We're presently anchored in a town called Hampton, Virginia. Nice spot, but then again, it is very late in the season and likely too busy to be believed in the on-season. So I won't have many pics to post yet, not until the sunrise hits everything just right.

Women On Board

Our friend, Douglas Coupar, was visiting us on board the other night. He, as are a few of you, is a big fan of this blog, and had a few questions for me. The first one had to do with a two wek period in which I did not post a story. He apparently was talking to another mutual friend about this strange disapearance, and it crossed their minds that we had, well, you know! Died!
I replied, alive as could be, that sometimes I can't access any wireless service and must wait. So there will be times when we're in an anchorage and cannot stay in touch via blog or email! Especially when we get into our intended destination in the Bahamas; we'll be a little ways out from civilization.
The other question had to do with the nature of living aboard. He is quite aware, as is James, that most couples who start out on these voyages don't return in their happily married state. The fact is that this is not an easy lifestyle. As ex-cruising sailorette Rose Gauthier put it, "It a lot of work!" Her voice laid much emphasis this as if it's enough to kill you! It almost is!
Now this brings me to my topic. How do women survive this "live-aboard" crap, anyway? As all who know me realize, I'm a big fan of deductive psychology, so let's plunge right into the icy waters of what makes a woman tick. Ready, Doug? James? Andy? All right, fellas...let's GO-O-O!
Like so many women, I enjoy relationships with other people. I like talking to them, getting to know them and really discussing things. Our relationships tend to more face-to-face. Take that away, and it takes a wee while, but I do start to get a little lonely and bored. So I start to look for other interests. I try not to stay lonely bored. Now men, on the other hand, tackle their relationships with other people differently, mostly. They enjoy working on a project together in side-by-side companionship. They tend to like doing stuff. they're more active. Task-oriented. They don't do chick-stuff like relating, shopping, and I must put an "etc." here, because I'm not really sure what else chicks like to do do...
Now, on our boat, (did I mention she is 36' long? Nottalotta room!), there is me, and there is James. And there is all that work. All the shippy things like stowing (and I mean properly!), lashing, hoisting, steering, being careful of halyards, sheets and other assorted not-to-become-flotsam, plotting, taking bearings, trip-planning, watch changes, ventilating, keeping warm, keeping cool, keeping dry, keeping up good spirits and being companionable. You would think I would have a hard time becoming bored! But this stuff is so new to me, also foreign to my creative-hemisphere brain, I do have a hard time with it.
If this sounds like there is more for Jim to sink hs teeth into than me, you'd be correct.
In the previous post, I mentioned some "settling in" issues I was experiencing. With that in mind, you could call living aboard a recipe for relationship disaster. I can see why most full time cruising couples don't make it! They split up, come back dispondent, change partners. Doug told me about one couple who live separately: she lives on land and has extended visits with him while he lives on board 8 months a year, and lives with her the other four. Sounds like a lot of expensive air travel! Finally, there are the majority of cruisers who maintain a family home and both live there during non-boating season.
As for us, we both intend on giving this much more time and working the bugs out. I have some things that stave-off boredom: my knitting when I can find some yarn (that's only been twice) I have my guitar on board, I have written a couple of magazine articles and writing this blog has been a great outlet for me. And I enjoy the creative task of living without a fridge, it permits me to experiment with recipe requirements for using shelf-stable foods and to not produce left-overs, (some day, if you're good, I'll tell you about the days we roast and demolish an entire chicken!). And Jim has All That Work! So things just might work out for us. Besides, he's awfully cute and, well! He's awfully cute!!!
A few people have made forays into the topic of cruising couples getting along all the time, but I've never heard anyone come right out and say that first of all, you're stuck with the spouse you start out with: if they're not up to the task of cruising, then either quit cruising or quit them!
I guess that sounds a bit harsh, but what are your options? Secondly, in order to give cruising your best shot, I've had to realize I must balance All That Work with some Michelle-y stuff, like walking, shopping for groceries and seeking a library alone. Meeting and talking with others. Emailing all of you guys, if I have your address. If not, slip me line!
So, Doug, there you have it: my take on how life is right now and how I'm learning to be a live-aboard cruiser and a woman. And, horrifically, all women are different, so they'll have to find their own specific answers. For now, things are working out. Most of the time!

Leaving NYC

These pictures belong with the post titled "Annapolis, Maryland! Land of the All-You-Can_eat Crab".

Maryland, Land of All-You-Can-Eat crab...

We made it to Annapolis! On the mythical Chesapeake bay! And got taken out for two dozen Crabs! That was it! Two dozen steamed, garliced crabdies, two pitchers of Yingling Lager and the three of us got those crabs as hammered as we got ourselves! So exciting! I guess crab is the big thing on the Chesapeake, where there are Crab Shacks all over. Our host, a single hander named Phil, had scoped out this joint the previous night, and the big blonde waitress welcomed him like long lost family, very homey place. Delicious crag, but next time we'll also order some rolls, or salad, or something that won't leave us with "crab-morning-breath". Isn't that nice?!

Yet, once again, my laptop just won't "go on line", so I have no pikkies for you all at this point, will post when I can.
We pulled out of NYC on a cool, hazey day. Sailed past the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island. Went through a field of freighters at anchor, huge black hulks just...sitting there! Then down Raritan Bay for Sandy Hook, intending on anchoring for the night, then continuing on to Atlantic City, O, Joy! But the wind really piped up and we needed shelter from a strong south wind. As we sailed down the coast of Sandy Hook, we saw a bay on the chart that looked OK, so we headed for it,. As we pulled around the corner, however, we saw that our depth-sounder was trying to tell us it was too shallow. About then, we saw a sailboat lying on its side on the beach, so after a strong case of the heebie-jeebies, we and made for a walled basin, further on at the bottom of the bay. It dawned on me right then, that the nature of our travelling was different now that we were in open ocean, no longer canals and rivers. We have to pay strong attention to the weather forcast on VHF, and must stay put during bad weather.
So after lying at anchor ourselves for two days at this place, Atlantic Heights, we had a weather window that showed it would be better to abort our previous plans to come in to Atlantic City and to make a straight shot right through to Cape May at the Delaware Bay, which we did. It was a 30 hour sail amd my first overnight passage.
We could see the lighted casinos on the edge of Atlantic city in the distance for 8 hours! I was the one to pass it, at sunrise. The open, bounding mane on one side, Soddom and Gomarrah on the other!
Cape May was absolutely packed with sport boats! We came in on my watch, and my tactic for collision avoidance was to go straight and let these big, uber-speedy boats pass us, which they did in large numbers. And close! So we don't really like the water around Cape May, and didn't get a chance to see the old town, too bad as it is highly acclaimed. Our lesson learned is this: Stay away from sportsmen's hot spots on weekends!
The long trip up the Delaware was neat, we saw a dolphin a few feet from our port side, leaping and playing. That made up for all the jack-asses at Cape May!
My learning curve had taken a nasty bend during all of this; not being able to see the towns we were passing through when the weather was rough or the anchorage just too far out, getting everthing wrong when ...well, when doing just about anything on deck! I was feeling menopausal, empty-nested and empty headed. I hadn't been off the boat for seven days! Yarg!
When we finally did get off the boat at Chesapeake City, my eyeballs were spangled with trying to see any kind of distance! I was tottering about like a tipsy miss! My mood didn't improve until we anchored, debarked and went strolling the fine streets of Annapolis.
So for the moment, we are well, the weather is absolutely be-ooo-tiful! Deep blue skies, deeper blue water, calm wind which is great for all the non-sailing we're doing.
The boat handled well during all this, sails remained intact, planks still holding, no leaks.
Our next destination is Elizabeth City on The Dismal Swamp. Cool, huh?